Model A 5 Conversion

I start with a stock Model A cross shaft. If the original shaft bushings are worn or the shaft itself is worn, I remove the arms and repair the shaft and replace the bushings before reinstalling the arms. The shaft is then put into a fixture that replicates the original arms positions, cut apart, and lengthened so the rebuilt shaft will clear the new T-5 transmission.

There is a $50.00 core charge 

This kit is used when modifying the stock Model A radius arms. This modification allows the proper tightening of the bolt, securing the arms to the transmission adapter. The arms are now free to move up and down along with slight twisting as the rear end travels through its motion while driving.

The spline adapter connects the 14 spline input shaft of the T-5 to the stock 10 spline clutch disc of the Model A. This allows the use of the stock Model A clutch disc, pressure plate, and bell housing. The pedal assembly is retained in its stock location also.

Emergency brake adapter allows the brake lever to be located to the right of the shifter. This will not work with brake levers mounted to the drivers left, early 1929, or brake levers mounted in front of the shift lever, 1929.

I use the open drive line adapter kit from Speedway. 

These adapters are mounted to the bottom of the transmission tail shaft. The rear end radius rods are bolted here.

This support is bolted to the cross member near the end of the tail housing. A rubber mount is bolted to it to support the transmission. 

Used to steady and support the transmission tail housing.

This plate allows the use of a stock Model A bell housing for bolting up the T-5 transmission. The bolt pattern for the transmission can be a Chevrolet or Ford even if it is from an S-10 truck. The plate has both patterns,

Two plates are mounted to the rear end banjo member and a cross- member is added to the frame with a pull bar installed between them. This helps the radius arms when transferring the torque from the rear wheels to the frame when the torque tube is removed.

After installing new u-joints, the drive line is balanced and painted.

I have the speedometer cables made by a commercial speedometer company. They are usually 8 feet long with the proper end to accommodate an oval or round speedometer (customer must specify). The outer housing is black vinyl but can be made to original metal specifications for an additional price.

I take the T-5 shifter apart in order to heat and partially straighten it before attaching a modified chrome stick from a Model A three speed transmission. These parts are put together using a fixture so the knob is close to the original position while driving. The T-5 shifter base comes in several types that determines where the pivot pin is located effecting how far the lever is moved between gears. For the short bases I modify this location and add a spacer to give it the "quick" shift feel. For the tall stock T-5 bases I just add the chrome stick. A $50.00 core charge is added.